Facial skin care is one of beauty’s most important categories in Europe; the segment is benefitting from the arrival of Asian-inspired concepts that are contributing to a trend toward multi-step regimens. As a result, many Europeans are expanding their skin care routines in order to achieve the desired results.

The total European facial skin care market was worth more than $22.6 billion last year and is growing 5% a year, according to Canadean Research. The strongest growth has been in the UK, where sales rose 8.7% to exceed $3.7 billion, followed by Russia, which posted sales of nearly $2.8 billion, due to a 6.4% increase in sales in 2015. Thanks to that rapid rise, Russia now ranks among the top five European countries for facial skin care sales.

According to Kantar Worldpanel, Russian women have a more rigorous skin care routine than other Europeans, using cleansing and care products slightly more than twice a day, every day. Their behavior is in contrast with Italian women who use facial skin care just 9.4 times a week, or a little more than once a day. Russian women’s commitment to skin care is also evident in their facial cleansing routines; more than 79% say they use them. Russians’ preferred format is facial wash, cleanser and toner, and they are also keen users of makeup remover, as 18.8% use these products compared to 8% of all other European women. In contrast, facial wipes are the one format that has failed to take off in Russia, with only 11.3% using wipes, compared to 30.3% of UK women. Russian use of daily face moisturizer is also below par at 42%, compared to the European average of 49.9%. This is further reflected in their comparative disinterest in anti-aging/anti-wrinkle moisturizers that, at 27.5%, is the lowest of all major European markets and considerably less than Spain (38.8%) and Poland (38.7%).

Multi-Step Regimens
From an innovation perspective, a number of new European launches embrace the multi-step concept, which underscores the influence that Asian beauty trends are having in the world. Results-driven consumers are adding single function products into their routine in the belief that their efficacy is not compromised by multiple claims.

“Serums and concentrates are positioned as a valuable addition to skin care regimes in boosting health and vitality through delivering an extra layer of hydration and nutrients to the skin,” observed Jamie Mills, an analyst with Canadean, who notes that consumers seek a more holistic approach to improving overall skin health, rather than just achieving the appearance of healthy, blemish-free or wrinkle-free skin through the application of foundation or other cosmetics.

Skin care masks have been another recent growth area as part of a daily skin care regimen in line with the growing interest and popularity of South Korean and Asian beauty approaches in the region. Similarly, facial oils are gaining popularity as modern formulations are non-greasy and are capable of delivering active ingredients where most needed.

What’s New?
Some examples of new product launches designed to add extra steps to skin care regimes include:

• Clinique Sculptwear Contouring Massage Cream Mask. The mask claims to enhance firmness and strengthen natural collagen to create plumper, more dewy-looking skin.
• Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Con- centrate. This is a serum formulated with evening primrose oil, lavender oil and “distilled botanicals” to restore the appearance of skin overnight. This day-part approach adds more targeted steps into consumer routines by providing deep hydration and repair while sleeping, according to the company.
• Jurlique Rosewater Balancing Mist. Designed to hydrate, refresh and soothe skin, it can be used at any stage in the beauty regimen.
• Annee de Mamiel is an acupuncturist and aromatherapist whose facial oils are inspired by her treatments; she uses ingredients that reportedly interact with our bodies. The winter oil, which was launched last month, is a blend of rosehip, argan, evening primrose and blackcurrant seed. The product is designed to reduce the appearance of redness and fine lines and hydrate the skin in even the most extreme climates. 
• Finally, L’Occitane Divine Youth Oil. It incorporates immortelle essential oil, apricot and rose hip oils and claims to give skin a texture that appears firmer as if plumped from within, according to the company.

Is Anti-Aging Fading?
When comparing the top skin care issues by region, Canadean researchers discovered that looking old was the most pressing concern among consumers living in Europe, Asia-Pacific and North America. In contrast, concerns about looking older did not feature among Latin Americans, who are more troubled by dry, flaky skin and sunburn.

Another interesting regional difference is in the percentage of consumers who claim to be very or extremely concerned about various skin care issues. In Asia, the percentages are much higher; 41% look for products for dry or flaky skin and 40% for maintaining the firmness/elasticity of their skin. In contrast, just 28% of Europeans are very/extremely concerned with looking old, while 25% cite maintaining the firmness/elasticity of their skin and 24% worry about dark circles under the eyes. These differences reflect the greater interest Asians take with their skin care routine and their keenness to use a wide variety of products. As Asian-inspired concepts move westward, it is likely that European consumers will also become interested in trying unfamiliar skin care products.

Canadean found that Europeans use anti-aging products at a younger age to prevent damage; and most are likely to start between the ages of 25 and 34. Smart marketers are filling the space with products and brands that do not have an overt anti-aging message, such as anti-pollution, which is another Asian import. Mills explained that the exploration of the impact of other external aggressors, such as UV exposure, could create a unique way to approach anti-aging, particularly given the urban lifestyle of many Europeans.
Clearly, a subtle shift is happening in skin care as more brands offer a focus on enhanced skin health and luminosity while not necessarily positioning products as having anti-aging claims. One example is German brand DM Balea’s Vital+ Rich Oil Cream mask which is targeted at mature skins; another is Merumaya, a skin care line focused on “youthful aging.”

However, any real change is likely to come from skin care brands acknowledging that mature consumers do not necessarily want to look younger, they just want to look as good as they can for their age.

---

Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets.
www.thepremiummarketreport.com